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How to Change the Fuel Filter on a 93 Honda Accord

April 7th, 2009 · 22 Comments

I decided to change the fuel filter on my 1993 Honda Accord shortly after I had the stall mentioned in my previous post.  I don’t think the fuel filter has ever been changed.  Since the car has over 200,000 miles, it would probably be a good thing to replace.


Since I was working on the fuel system, I needed to follow extra precautions to avoid an accident.  I began my work on the car after it had set a while, you don’t want to work on the fuel system of a hot car.  I then disconnected the battery, it is a good idea to place a non-conductive material such as a old towel over the terminals, you would not want to have an accidental spark occur on this job.

Relieving Fuel System Pressure

To relieve the pressure from the cars fuel lines, I loosened the gas cap and loosened the bolt at the end of the fuel rail.  You should have a wrag handy to catch any escaping gas.

Getting to the Fuel Filter 

According to my manual, I would need to remove the vacuum control box to get to the fuel filter.  I found that it was helpful to remove the air filter and air intake hose as well since removing this made removing the vacuum control box easier.

There were five vacuum lines that were connected to by control box, I disconnected these from the other ends where they attached at various points on my engine. One at the EGR, three on the intake manifold and one at the charcoal filter which is below the control box.

Using a 10 inch extension and a 10mm socket I unbolted the two screws tolding control box housing, lifted it out and placed it over off to the side, I did not need to disconnect the electrical connections.

Vacuum Control Box on a 93 Honda Accord

Vacuum Control Box on a 93 Honda Accord

The Fuel Filter
At last I was able to get to the fuel filter.  The filter has two connections to the fuel lines on the top, both of these need to be taken out.  There is a clamp that holds it in place against the firewall.  On one side of the clamp is a single bolt which keeps the clamp tightly around the fuel filter.  I removed this bolt and was able to get the filter out.

Fuel Filter for 93 Honda Accord

Fuel Filter on a 93 Honda Accord

My new fuel filter came with some copper washers, I had only seen one washer on the banjo connection when I removed the filter, but after reading in my 1993 Accord Repair Manual, I started to look for the second one.  It had become fused to the banjo bolt.  I removed this old washer and replaced both of them with the new copper washers and then installed the new fuel filter.  Make sure to re-tighten the bolt at the end of the fuel rail if you loosened it.

After you get the fuel filter back on, you will want to start the car and check for leaks.  I tightened mine pretty good since I didn’t want to have a leaky fuel system; I don’t have a torque wrench so I would say I gave it about an 8 or a 9.  The manual lists the torque that it should be tightened to.   I started the car before connecting the vacuum lines – it ran pretty rough, the check engine light came on and I couldn’t hardly keep it running.  After it shut off I looked for leaks, there were none.  I reconnected all the vacuum components and started it again to check for leaks – the car ran much better now; there were no leaks.  I finished the assembling everything, cleaned and packed away the tools.  I completed this job in probably one and a half hours.

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Tags: 93 Honda Accord · Auto Maintenance

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22 responses so far ↓

  • 1 Lue // May 6, 2009 at 7:55 am

    I cannot say thanks enough for the info….I was given a 93…and needed to do some maintenance on it.. ;)

  • 2 'Heels rule !!! // Jun 1, 2009 at 3:38 pm

    Thank you for the detailed info…very informative & helpful…i have a ’93 coupe w/300,000 miles on it…thanks again

  • 3 Spencer // Jun 26, 2009 at 3:40 pm

    Thanks. Changing the filter in my ’91. My only questions was what is the fuel rail?

    The fuel rail is a generally a metal tube running parallel inbetween the valve cover an the intake system. It recieves fuel from the filter and transports it to the injectors.

  • 4 KonstantinMiller // Jul 7, 2009 at 12:55 am

    Hi. I like the way you write. Will you post some more articles?

  • 5 wreck // Aug 12, 2009 at 1:16 pm

    Verry good stuff very helpfull thanks if you can put some about 97

  • 6 Taurian V // Aug 22, 2009 at 6:01 pm

    You could also remove the fuel pump fuse while its running and that would make the lines not be pressurized anymore right?

  • 7 Jovan // Sep 20, 2009 at 3:49 pm

    Thanks for detailed instructions.
    I did it on my Honda 1991,I also had a lot of problems unscrewing both bolts on the fuel filter

  • 8 Darlene // Oct 16, 2009 at 12:49 pm

    Thank you, but I was wondering what the lines are called that connect to the fuel filter?

    Administrator reply: Those would be the fuel lines.

  • 9 Balacera // Nov 24, 2009 at 3:24 pm

    My 92 Accord doesn’t start in the mornings but when I do manage to get it going it starts all day unless I leave it sitting for an extended amount of time. It runs perfect, do you think the fuel filter might have something to do w/ that problem? Thanks for you time

    Reply – It’s hard to say, starting issues can arise from a variety of sources. The fuel filter could be related, but you would need to investigate to make sure.

  • 10 Kevin // Jan 13, 2010 at 6:40 pm

    My 91 accord accelerates really slow when you hit the gas. is that the same problem that you had with yours before you changed the filter?

    No, I didn’t have that problem.

  • 11 ty smith // Jan 28, 2010 at 11:23 pm

    hey mine does dats to but so many people tellin me different things but somebody also said dat an mine has about 200,000 mile on it

  • 12 Dhan the Man // Mar 2, 2010 at 6:23 pm

    Thanks a lot. Very very clear note. Please, do write again for different repairs. Your notes help others.

  • 13 bgwalker // Apr 27, 2010 at 10:40 pm

    Thank you very much! Now I can do mine.

  • 14 jaranda // Aug 2, 2010 at 4:12 pm

    Thank you so much! this was very helpful and I would have been lost without the pictures!

  • 15 shadetreemech // Oct 9, 2010 at 3:49 pm

    The real key to getting enough torque to loosen the fuel line is to use about a 20mm open end wrench to hold the top of the filter. You will know which part to put it on because it is shaped like a big washer. At the same time put your 14mm wrench on the actual bolt. Pull counterclockwise on the 14mm wrench while pushing hard on the 20mm wrench. The wrenches work against each other but the bolt is what will have to give in first. If you try to work with the 14mm wrench only, most of your muscle is lost in the filter moving. Putting that pressure on it in the opposite direction with the 20mm wrench lets you stabilize the filter in order to put some real torque into loosening that thing. This also works with the bolt the sits vertical but because you can use a socket on that one is is a bit easier to remove it.

    Reattaching the fuel line once you get the new filter loosely in place can be a pain. The fuel line is stiff and gives little flexibility of placement. The trick is to have the filter in the holder and loosely attached to the firewall to you can make fine movments of it to line it up with the feeder line as evenly and levely as you can, then you have to put some muscle on it to get it far enough in for the first thread to engage. Once you get it threading on in, you’re home. Be sure not to crossthread this. Bad news if you do. Guaranteed fuel leak one you “think” you have it tightend. It should thread in with some resistance but not be truly difficult to turn until it gets almost fully tight.

    Is replacing this filter a job for a complete novice or someone who doesn’t turn wrenches in tight spaces comfortably. No it is not; but, if you feel well-read enough to tackle it, at the very least have a helper. The extra set of hands, and eyes, will come in very handy.

  • 16 shadetreemech // Oct 9, 2010 at 4:17 pm

    #9 Balacera, If you’ve done plugs, wires, distributor cap, and rotor, and you’re still battling that cold-starting problem, focus on the Ignitor (sometimes called Ignition Module). It should be located inside the distributor on your model. It’s hard to get to and replace that part which is about the size of book of matches, and it’s actually as cheap to just replace the whole distributor with a decent one.

    That part can be a definite culprit on cold starting problems. One sure fire way to know if that is what is acting up is to wrap a dark-colored towel or something around the distributor (not just the cap but the actual metal distributor housing that mates up with the crankshaft) one evening while the car is still somewhat warm. The idea is to hold just a bit of heat in that distributor so it doesn’t get bone-chilling cold during the night. If the next morning when you remove that towel, the car starts right up when you crank it, your ignitor is failing and can no longer handle the bitter cold temps. The reason it eventually starts is that each time you attempt it, you warm that ignitor just a tiny bit. Of course nobody wants to have to try 15 or 20 times to get their car started in the morning.

  • 17 Iceman // Feb 25, 2011 at 4:42 pm

    Did this fix your stalling problem?

    No, it was the main relay that was causing that issue: main-relay-causing-starting-and-stalling-issues-on-a-1993-honda-accord

  • 18 James // Jun 28, 2011 at 9:09 pm

    Thanks! I’ve got a Honda w/430,000 miles and this is fuel filter #3 (including original) to be installed, my first. You left great directions.

  • 19 James // Jun 28, 2011 at 9:10 pm

    My Honda is a ’93 Accord.

  • 20 baldo // Jul 7, 2011 at 10:48 pm

    i have a 93 honda accord thats burning to much gas for a 4 cylinder. sometimes when driving around i could feel as if it drops a gear down and car losses power. none of the fuel lines leak any ideas?

    If your trasmission isn’t working properly, read this post on transmission problems with a 93 Honda Accord/. If this is your problem, it could definatly affect your mileage.

  • 21 Buck // Nov 3, 2011 at 8:26 am

    Tips to make the job easier and safer:
    Remove the fuel pressure from the line before taking apart and vent the gas tank. Use a penetrating oil like PB Blaster or WD40 before attempting to loosen the fuel lines. Let soak for at least 30 mints. Use a tubing/flare 14mm wrench, not a standard open end wrench for the fitting. About $5 for a cheapee. Make sure you use a second wrench to hole the female part the bolt or fitting screws into. This will be either a 21mm and/or a 19mm wrench depending on if it has been replaced before. This is a “bolt head” under the banjo bolt hole. Look at the new filter to see it BEFORE attempting to take the old one off. Use an anti-seize compound on the fitting threads and put some on the metal fuel line that slides inside the fitting. These fittings will often “fuse” to the metal line, thus the need for the penetrating oil. A small dab of anti-seize between the banjo blot head and the top washer will make the next replacement easier. After removing fuel lines, remove the two bolts above the filter to remove the retaining housing. Then replaced the filter (noting alignment) while on the ground/bench. Replace back in car and reattach lines starting with the metal fuel line fitting. If you have a hard time starting the fitting into the socket, trying screwing it in without the filter housing being attached to the firewall. This often makes it easier if the line is not bent correctly. Once fully screwed it but lose, attach housing to firewall then attach banjo bolt line (its flexible). Tighten all fittings and bolts as needed. Check for leaks. If you have removed or loosen the fuel rail bolt, check it for leaks also.

  • 22 Louis // Apr 2, 2012 at 2:32 pm


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